Clinging to a steep-sided valley, Almora is the sprawling regional capital of Kumaon, first established as a summer capital by the Chand Rajas of Kumaon in 1560. A cool climate and mountain views are attractions but don’t be put off by the ugly, shambolic main street when you’re first deposited at the bus stand – head one block south to the pedestrian-only cobbled Lalal Bazaar, lined with intricately carved and painted traditional wooden shop façades. It’s a fascinating place to stroll, people-watch and shop. While otherwise not bursting with interest, Almora has some colonial-era buildings, reliable trekking outfits and a couple of community-based weaving enterprises. You’ll often see Westerners floating around thanks to a hippy subculture of travellers living up around Kasar Devi temple.
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