Cruising through the stark, desertlike landscape north of Zapala doesn’t really prepare you for arrival at this pretty little oasis town. Set at the convergence of Río Neuquén and Río Curi Leuvú, Chos Malal’s one claim to fame is that it was Neuquén province’s capital until 1904. Perhaps this explains why the town has so many stately old buildings and the present-day capital has so few.
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