From this fort, built on a long island in the Cauvery River only 16km from Mysore, Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan ruled much of southern India during the 18th century. In ruins since the British came through like a whirlwind in 1799, the ramparts, battlements and some of the gates of the fort still stand.
Atop the bald rock of Vindhyagiri Hill, the 17.5m-high statue of the Jain deity Gomateshvara (Bahubali), said to be the world’s tallest monolithic statue, is visible long before you reach the pilgrimage town of Sravanabelagola. Viewing the statue close up is the main reason for heading to this sedate town, whose name means ‘the Monk of the White Pond’. The statue’s simplicity and serenity is in complete contrast to the complexity and energy of the sculptural work at the Belur and Halebid temples.
This region includes Bengaluru, formerly known as Bangalore, a bustling, buzzing hub of IT, shopping, dining and crazy traffic. If all that gets too much, you can limber up for some Ashtanga yoga at Mysore where a slower pace is dutifully rewarded.
Northern Karnataka includes territory in the north-eastern pocket of the state bordered by Andhra Pradesh and Maharashtra. This area includes destinations such as Bijapur and Badami, known for its ancient caves and temples, to Bidar with its famous 15th-century fort, right up in the far north.
West of the Kabini River is the 643-sq-km wildlife sanctuary of Nagarhole National Park (Rajiv Gandhi National Park; Indian/foreigner Rs 50/150, camera Rs 50), pronounced nag-ar-hole-eh. The lush forests here are home to around 60 tigers, as well as leopards, elephants, gaurs, muntjacs (barking deer), wild dogs, bonnet macaques and common langurs; animal sightings are more common here than in Bandipur.
It’s not difficult to divine Mysore’s charismatic appeal. The historic seat of the Wodeyar maharajas is easy to get around, has a good climate and works hard to promotes its regal heritage. Famous for its traditional painting and its silk, sandalwood and incense production, Mysore is now promoting itself as an international centre for Ashtanga yoga. Whether you choose to stretch your body in a traditional yoga pose or take more gentle exercise strolling through the city’s magnificent palace and colourful market, Mysore is one Indian city that rewards a slower pace.
Situated at the point where the Netravati and Gurupur Rivers flow into the Arabian Sea, Managlore has been a pit stop on international trade routes since the 6th century AD. It was the major port of Hyder Ali’s kingdom, and today the region’s coffee and cashew crops are still shipped out from the modern port, which is 10km north of the city.
Also known as Mercara, this bustling market town is spread out along a series of ridges. The main reason for coming here is to organise treks and sort out the practicalities of travel.
The mountainous Kodagu (or Coorg) region is home to the Kodava people and refugee Tibetans. The geography and cool climate make it a fantastic area for trekking, bird-watching and generally refreshing the soul. Winding roads ramble over forested hills and past spice and coffee plantations, which burst into fragrant white blossoms in March and April.
The Karnataka Coast runs from Mangalore in the south on the border with Kerala all the way to Gokarna in the north. This area includes destinations such as Udupi in the south and Jog Falls and Murudeshwar in the north.