Loveable Yuksom is historic and charming. It’s the main trailhead for the Khangchendzonga Trek, but, lacking direct views of the high mountains, has thus far been spared the rapacious development that’s overwhelming Pelling. The Community Information Centre (per hr Rs 50; 10am-1pm & 3-5pm) offers internet connection in an unlikely hut near Kathok Lake.
Sikkim’s greatest tourist draw is simply staring at Khangchendzonga, white-peaked magnificence from Pelling. Most visitors then add excursions to nearby waterfalls and monasteries, plus perhaps a spot of walking. Some lovely one-day hikes start from the charming village of Yuksom. That’s also the trailhead for serious multiday group-trek expeditions to Dzongri (group trekking permits required).
The three-day ‘Monastic Trek’ from Pelling to Tashiding via Khecheopalri Lake remains possible; however, improvements to the Pelling–Yuksom road means dust clouds get stirred up by ever-more frequent tourist jeeps, diminishing the appeal of hiking the trek’s on-road sections. Consider catching a ride to wonderful Yuksom (via Khecheopalri Lake using tour jeeps) and hiking from there to Tashiding (one day, no permit required). Even if you don’t trek further than the Yak Restaurant, Yuksom is a delightful place to unwind.
The main sights in South Sikkim are Namchi’s gigantic statues. The region has plenty of other great viewpoints, too, but visitors generally hurry straight through en route to Pelling leaving much of the region comparatively untouristed.
If you’re feeling jaded by the heat and hassles of India, Sikkim is the perfect antidote. It’s clean (plastic bags are banned) and the mountain air is fresh. Best of all the people are among India’s most friendly, with a charming manner that’s unobtrusive and slightly shy. To really savour some true Sikkimese atmosphere, visit a village tongba-bar for some local millet beer: it’s a bit like warm Japanese sake. Plunging mountain valleys are lushly forested, interspersed occasionally with rice terraces and groves of flowering rhododendrons. Tibetan-style Buddhist monasteries (gompas) add splashes of vermilion to the green ridgetops and are approached through atmospheric avenues of colourful prayer flags set on long bamboo poles.
Rapidly expanding Ravangla is spectacularly perched overlooking a wide sweep of western Sikkim, the gompas of Old Ralang, Tashiding, Pemayangtse and Sangachoeling, all distantly visible against a horizon that’s sawtoothed with snow-capped peaks.
Pelling’s raison d’etre is its jaw-dropping dawn view of Khangchendzonga. It’s not so much a town as a 2km string of tourist hotels, but don’t be put off. The view is worth it. Despite hordes of visitors, locals remain surprisingly unjaded, and the best budget hotels are great for meeting fellow travellers. Don’t miss strolling up to the helipad for even more panoramic views.
Soon, two utterly vast statues will be facing off from opposite hillsides across this quietly prosperous market town. The Buddhist one at Samdruptse is already finished, the Hindu one at Solophok is still under construction.
This useful transport hub between West Sikkim, Namchi and Darjeeling/Siliguri could make a launching point for visits to interesting but lesser-known Sikkimese villages like Rinchenpong (country getaways) or Reishi (hot springs and holy cave).
Geyzing is West Sikkim’s capital, but for permit extensions you need Tikjuk, half way to Pelling.