Shrouded in mist, mysticism and virgin forest, Te Urewera National Park is the North Island’s largest, encompassing 212, 673 hectares cut with lakes and rivers. The highlight is Lake Waikaremoana (Sea of Rippling Waters), a deep crucible of water encircled by the Lake Waikaremoana Track, one of NZ’s Great Walks. Rugged bluffs drop away to reedy inlets, the lake’s mirror surface disturbed only by mountain zephyrs and the occasional waterbird taking to the skies.
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The name Te Urewera still has the capacity to make Pakeha New Zealanders feel slightly uneasy – and not just because it translates as ‘The Burnt Penis’. There’s something primal and uncontrolled about this wild woodland, with its rich history of Maori resistance.
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