Dreary Dover is the kind of ugly port town that you either visit to pile on and off its ponderous cross-channel ferries steering the narrow 20-mile stretch to France, or else to make a dash for its premier attractions and move quickly on. That said, as attractions go it has several humdingers. The port’s vital strategic position so close to the Continent gave rise to a vast and unusual hilltop castle with around 2000 years of history under its belt. Also here are the spectacular white cliffs that are as much a symbol of English wartime resilience as Winston Churchill or the Battle of Britain. However, the town itself has an embattled aura, with run-down postwar architecture and often palpable tensions between asylum seekers and long-term residents.
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