Although there are faster weekend expresses, the daily Ulaan Baatar-bound train from Irkutsk is excruciatingly slow, taking a mind-numbing 11 hours to clear the borders. It’s just one or two kupe carriages appended to train 364, which has no restaurant car and doesn’t make food stops between Naushki (on the border) and Ulan-Ude (six to eight hours). Southbound you can save money by travelling platskart to Naushki, buying the Naushki-Sükhbaatar ticket separately then purchasing a Sükhbaatar to Ulaan Baatar ticket on arrival in Mongolia (paid in Mongo- lian tögrög).
Much faster is the through bus to Ulaan Baatar organised three times weekly by Buryat Intour in Ulan-Ude. More interesting than either is to make marshrutka hops to the Mongolian border via Novoselenginsk and the once-opulent tea-route city of Kyakhta.
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