From trans-Siberian train windows there are attractive lake-glimpses along much of Baikal’s south coast. Lacking any architectural charm, neither Slyudyanka nor smelly Baikalsk tempt many Westerners off the train, yet these drab, functional places have superb mountain-backed lakeside settings and accommodation that’s cheaper than Irkutsk’s. Slyudyanka is also the best place to start Circumbaikal train rides or excursions to the lovely Tunka Valley.
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