Nothing is permanent in this fashion-filled, helter-skelter city that completely rebuilds itself every decade and vibrates with energy night and day. Every evening a tsunami of Seoulites sweeps into entertainment districts, where smoky barbecue restaurant
Yes, the future has already arrived, but the past has not been completely uprooted – Seoul’s mighty fortress wall and gates still stand, as do World Heritage palaces, royal shrines and tombs. A neighbourhood of hanok (traditional Korean one-storey wooden
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