Looming like a tip of a giant inverted iceberg north of the BAM line, the sprawl of remote Sakha Republic (the country’s largest), Khabarovsky Territory and (further up) Magadan Region take time and effort to reach (or an air ticket). Life is noticeably different here. The buildings of Yakutsk – a friendly place where Russians are the minority – stand on stilts. Built by Gulag labour, Magadan embraces its natural setting of mountains, salmon streams and rocky beaches facing the Sea of Okhotsk.
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