Sumbawa Besar, often shortened to just ‘Sumbawa’ by locals, is the principal town of the western half of the island. It’s a resolutely provincial, unexceptional place where horse carts called benhur still hold their own with bemos, and there are no attractions except for the old palace. A trip out to Pulau Moyo or to nearby villages can be rewarding, but they can be difficult to reach. For most travellers, Sumbawa Besar is just a rest stop on the journey across the island.
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