The Unification Observatory (Tong·il Jeonmangdae; 945 3171; www.jmd.co.kr; adult/youth W2500/1300; 9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9am-5.30pm Oct, Nov & Mar, 9am-5pm Dec-Feb) at Odusan is as close as most Korean civilians can get to the DMZ. Panmunjom, north of Seoul, i
Since the Unification Observatory does offer South Koreans a rare peek at the forbidden North, tourists by the bus load turn up here daily throughout the summer months, and it’s also popular with tours from Japan and Taiwan. It isn’t quite the same as goi
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