Chalk-colored high-rises and red-tile roofs fill this tiny peninsula, whose manicured yards and swept sidewalks give a tidy impression. In the first half of the 20th century, the city was Ecuador’s principal port, but eroding sandbanks let the honor drift to Guayaquil and Manta, and Bahía (as the locals call it) was left to its housekeeping.
Calamities seem to collect here. When the 1998 El Niño hit Bahía particularly badly it was cut off by landslides, and streets turned into rivers of mud. In the same year an earthquake measuring 7.2 on the Richter scale toppled or severely damaged some buildings. Only one person was killed in the quake, but at least 20 died in the horrendous mudslides that followed, literally wiping out the poorer neighborhoods on the edge of town.
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