Suffolk’s county capital was one of the very first Saxon towns in England, a thriving medi-eval centre of commerce and a major point of emigration to America. But while heavy investment jazzes up its lively waterfront marinas, in its centre beautiful timber-framed buildings moulder behind scruffy boards and ugly modern chain stores nudge medieval churches. The most beautifully preserved buildings, of which there are several humdingers, are occupied by private enterprises. That said the town has some beautiful parkland, a burgeoning cultural scene and great transport connections.
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