Split with Argentina (where it’s called Lago Buenos Aires), this massive 224,000-hectare lake is often a wind-stirred green-blue sea in the middle of a sculpted Patagonian steppe. Its rough and twisty roads dwarf the traveler: you’ll feel like you’re crawling through the landscape. This section follows the Carretera Austral south from Coyhaique, around the lake’s western border.
Just before reaching Balmaceda from Coyhaique, a right-hand turnoff (the sign points to Cochrane) heads toward Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo. The spires of glacier-bound Cerro Castillo tower over some 180, 000 hectares of southern beech forest. In Villa Cerro Castillo (km 104) stay with Don Niba (public phone 067-419-200; Los Pioneros 872; s incl breakfast US$10), guide, storyteller and grandson of pioneers, in a comfortable home with whopping breakfasts. He also offers horse treks and hikes.
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