Apart from its vaguely interesting Sunday market, Geyzing is most useful as West Sikkim’s transport hub. However, for a pleasantly peaceful accommodation alternative, go 2.3km towards Sakyong (itself a village with considerable potential). Here the Tashigang Resort (250340; www.tashigangresort.com; s Rs 900-1300, d Rs 1150-1560, plus tax 20%) offers magnificently wide views from almost all except the cheapest ‘deluxe rooms’. Curious roof lawns top the slightly frumpy red-brick building offering more chances for mountain contemplation.
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There are three main routes from the capital to Sikkim’s main tourist hub. The longest and least interesting loops a long way south to Rongphu, then back via Melli, Jorethang and Legship. Fortunately this is normally only used by public sumos when landslides block the two possible routes via Singtam and Ravangla. Both of these are highly attractive, especially the longer, little-used route via Yangang (hired jeep only), which approaches Ravangla along an extremely dramatic cliff-edge drive around the precipitous base of Maenam Hill.
Sikkim’s capital is mostly a functional sprawl of multistorey concrete boxes. But true to its name (meaning ‘hill top’) these are steeply layered along a sharp mountain ridge. When clouds clear (typically at dawn), views are inspiring, with Khangchendzonga poking its pointy white nose above the western horizon. Gangtok’s manmade attractions are minor, but it’s not a bad place to wait out a day or two while organising trekking permits or trips to the north.
Sikkim’s capital Gantok atop a hill has inspiring views and is a good enough spot to stick around to plan the next move – perhaps a journey to Gantok’s surrounds.