Category: Bolivia

Bolivia’s southwestern corner is an awe-inspiring­ collection of harsh, diverse landscapes ranging from the blinding white Salar de Uyuni salt flat to the geothermal hotbed of Los Lípez, one of the world’s harshest wilderness regions and an important refuge for many Andean wildlife species. The ground here literally boils with minerals, and the spectrum of colors produced is extraordinary. A circuit from Uyuni takes you through absolutely unforgettable, literally breathtaking landscapes and is the highlight of many people’s visit to Bolivia.

Proud, genteel Sucre is Bolivia’s most beautiful city, and the symbolic heart of the nation. It was here that independence was proclaimed, and while La Paz is now the seat of government and treasury, Sucre is still Bolivia’s judicial capital. A glorious ensemble of whitewashed buildings sheltering pretty patios, it’s a spruce place that preserves a wealth of colonial architecture. Sensibly, there are strict controls on development (don’t even think about painting your house black, for example), which have kept Sucre as a real showpiece of Bolivia. It was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 1991.

Several startlingly beautiful sights are hidden away in this remote corner. The surreal landscape is nearly treeless, punctuated by gentle hills and volcanoes near the Chilean border. Wildlife in the area includes three types of flamingos (most notably the rare James species), plus plenty of llamas, vicuñas, emus and owls.

This little city is as laid-back as they get, with palm-lined squares, sizzling Argentine barbecues, sprawling bar and café terraces, and local vocal talents wailing from karaoke bars. Nothing much happens in Tarija, but the city does have some interesting, colonial architecture that can warrant a day’s walking around. If you have time, go around some of the surrounding wineries and try Bolivian vino or get your throat heated on some singani (distilled grape spirit).

Isolated Guanay makes a good base for visits to the gold-mining operations along the Ríos Mapiri and Tipuani. If you can excuse the utter rape of the landscape for the sake of gold, chatting with the down-to-earth miners and barranquilleros (panners) can make for a particularly interesting experience. This area and points upriver are frontier territory that may be reminiscent of the USA’s legendary Old West. Gold is legal tender in shops and saloons, and the foundations of the local culture appear to be gambling, prostitutes and large hunks of beef.

The Amazon Basin is one of Bolivia’s largest and most mesmerizing parts. The rainforest is raucous with wildlife (the flora and fauna include rare species), and spending a few days roaming the sweaty jungle (and minding the bugs) is an experience you’re unlikely to forget. This is where you’ll find the deep and mysterious lushness that has drawn adventurers and explorers since the beginning of time. And it’s not only the forests that are enchanting: it’s also the richness of indigenous cultures, traditions and languages that exist in the region.

Knocking on Brazil’s back door, Guayaramerín is twinned with the Brazilian town of Guajará-Mirim on the other side of the Río Mamoré. This lively town thrives on all kinds of trade (legal and illegal) with Brazil and its streets are full of dusty motorcycle tracks and markets heaving with synthetic garments. ­It is now the northern terminus for river transportation along the Río Mamoré.