If you’re heading north, Jujuy is the where you start to feel the proximity to Bolivia; you see it in people’s faces, the chaotic street scenes, the markets that spill out onto sidewalks and restaurant menus, which offer locro, humitas and sopa de mani (spicy peanut soup) as a matter of course, rather than as ‘regional specialties.’
Originally a key stopover for colonial mule-traders en route to Potosí, Jujuy played an important part in the wars of independence when General Manuel Belgrano directed the evacuation of the entire city to avoid royalist capture; every August Jujuy’s biggest event, the weeklong Semana de Jujuy, celebrates the éxodo jujeño (Jujuy exodus).
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