Truly the end of the line, La Quiaca is 5171km north of Ushuaia, and a major crossing point to Bolivia. It’s a cold, windy place that has decent places to stay and eat but little to detain you. Once a bustling railroad terminus, La Quiaca’s main sign of life these days is weary Bolivians trudging between the border and the bus terminal toting heavy bags. Nevertheless, it’s not dangerous, and noble stone buildings recall more optimistic times.
The road to La Quiaca is intriguing. After leaving the Quebrada de Humahuaca, paved RN 9 passes through Abra Pampa, a forlornly windy town 90km north of Humahuaca, and climbs through picturesque and typical altiplano landscapes. Nightly frosts make agriculture precarious, so people focus subsistence efforts on livestock (llamas, sheep, goats) that can survive on the sparse ichu grass. Look for the endangered vicuña off main routes.
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