Their suburbs are so close that they’ve virtually merged into one sprawling urban conurbation, but Bradford remains far removed from its much more glamorous neighbour, Leeds. Or so they would have you believe in Leeds. But even Bradford is getting a facial: much of the dour city centre is scheduled for a revamp which, according to town planners, will see it recast as an urban park with its very own lake in front of city hall. It sounds so promising, and a far cry from the kind of ‘ugliness that could not only be tolerated but often enjoyed, ’ as the city’s favourite son, the cantankerous JB Priestley (1894–1984), once described it.
Thanks to its role as a major player in the wool trade, Bradford attracted large numbers of Bangladeshis and Pakistanis throughout the 20th century, who – despite occasional racial tensions – have helped reinvigorate the city and give it new energy. A high point of the year is the colourful Mela.
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