Category: THE MIDLANDS

Staffordshire, in the words of Stoke-born novelist Arnold Bennett, has long been ‘unsung by searchers after the extreme’ – but if you took that to mean ‘boring’ you’d be mistaken. Though it’s tucked between the urban sprawls of Birmingham and Manchester, the county has a surprising abundance of natural beauty, from rolling Cannock Chase, a magnet for walkers and cyclists, to the prickly spine of the Peak District known as the Roaches. The haunting Gothic might of Lichfield’s wonderful cathedral, the wild rides at Alton Towers, and the neoclassical mansion of Shugborough are among the county’s other charms.

Staffordshire’s industrial heart, though historically important in pottery production, holds limited appeal to the visitor, except in one department: the porcelain for which the city is famed. For a preview of Stoke, check out Arnold Bennett’s memorable descriptions of the area in its industrial heyday in his novel Anna of the Five Towns (something of a misnomer as Stoke actually consists of six towns).

Without doubt one of the prettiest parts of England, Derbyshire is a winning combination of rolling green hills dotted with lambs and lined with stone fences, beautiful wild moors, remote windswept farms and grey-stone villages. And, er, Derby.

Time seems to have stood still at this enchanting picture-postcard village. Surrounded by sweeping Peak District countryside at its most majestic, the tiny cluster of imposing stone houses and the parish church are eye-catching in their own right. Ramblers and mountain bikers love it here: Edale lies between the White and Dark Peak areas, and is the southern terminus of the Pennine Way. Its train station makes this seemingly remote enclave very accessible – and highly popular.

The magnificent turreted castle is the lure for most of the visitors to this quiet county town. It’s an awe-inspiring sight – as are the queues in summer. Several other sights are less over-run, but also well worth stopping for. A gentle stroll round the centre reveals well-preserved historic buildings – survivors of a fire in 1694 that destroyed much of the town – as well as absorbing museums and fine riverside views.

The former lead-mining village of Eyam (ee-em) is a quaint little spot with a morbidly touching history. In 1665 a consignment of cloth from London delivered to a local tailor carried the dreaded Black Death plague. What could have been a widespread disaster remained a localized tragedy thanks to the bravery of the village inhabitants: as the plague spread, the rector, William Mompesson, and his predecessor Thomas Stanley, convinced villagers to quarantine themselves rather than transmit the disease further. Selflessly, they did so; by the time the plague ended in late 1666, it had wiped out whole families, killing around 250 of the village’s 800 inhabitants. People in surrounding villages remained relatively unscathed. Even independently of this poignant story, Eyam is well worth a visit; its sloping streets of old cottages backed by rolling green hills form a classic postcard view of the Peak District.

Warwickshire got lucky: it could have been just another picturesque English county but history makes it one of the most visited areas outside of London. Shakespeare’s birthplace at Stratford-upon-Avon and Warwick’s superb castle are the main draws. Other, lesser known attractions can be just as rewarding, however: try the hauntingly atmospheric Kenilworth Castle ruins or visit the cathedrals (yes, plural) that shaped Coventry’s history.

One thing stands out in this pleasant, unremarkable pocket of middle England – its stunningly atmospheric ruined castle. With crumbling walls and vivid history, it inspired Walter Scott to use it as a setting for his novel, called…Kenilworth.