Ancud is the first large town for those coming from Puerto Montt. It was once a rather wealthy place with gracious buildings, palafitos and a railway line. But the earthquake of 1960 destroyed much of that and today the sprawling city is built primarily of boxy concrete structures and is not particularly attractive. Ancud makes a good base to explore the nearby penguin colonies, its quality museum, some rugged beaches and sea-kayaking spots, but if you are short on days it is recommended that you push on to the more distinct Castro.
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