Alter do Chão, 33km west of Santarém, is justly the subject of a thousand postcards. A sandbar directly in front of the town forms a picturesque white-sand island, known as Ilha do Amor (Island of Love). The island is largest and most attractive when the water is low, usually June to December. In the wet season it’s greatly reduced, though still pretty.
Besides its famous beach, Alter do Chão also stands at the entrance to a huge lagoon, Lago Verde, which you can explore in rented canoes. FLONA do Tapajós and other spots on the Rio Tapajós make for good boat tours. Also accessible is the lesser-known Rio Arapiunes, whose nickname, ‘the Caribbean of the Amazon, ’ is a forgivable exaggeration: the dry season reveals white-sand beaches and, on sunny days, transparent, even turquoise water. And don’t miss Arariba, one of the best indigenous art stores in the Amazon region.
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