Cruising through the stark, desertlike landscape north of Zapala doesn’t really prepare you for arrival at this pretty little oasis town. Set at the convergence of Río Neuquén and Río Curi Leuvú, Chos Malal’s one claim to fame is that it was Neuquén province’s capital until 1904. Perhaps this explains why the town has so many stately old buildings and the present-day capital has so few.
The two main plazas in town bear the names of the two superheroes of Argentine history – San Martín and Sarmiento. Around the former is the majority of the historic buildings, including the Fuerte IV Division fort (go around the back for sweeping views out over the river valley). Five blocks south is Plaza Sarmiento, where you’ll find banks and businesses.
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