The largest settlement on this coast, Umba is still a wonderfully tranquil place to hang out and explore on foot. The 103km paved road from Kandalaksha runs through forest, with glimpses of lakes and the island-strewn Kandalaksha Bay.
Umba has three parts, linked by bridges. The two newer (19th-century) parts of town occupy south-pointing promontories formed by inlets of the White Sea, with the main bus stop and town centre on the eastern promontory. The third and westernmost part of town, Staraya (Old) Umba, founded by Pomor settlers in the 15th century, sits on the west bank of the rushing River Umba.
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