Fought for, lost, won, debated over, called ‘hell’ by a literary great, sought after by oil-eyed businessfolk – Sakhalin is the 948km-long heart of the Sakhalinskaya Oblast (Sakhalin Region) which includes 59 islands, including Moneron Island and the disputed Kuril Islands. By map, the area looks pretty darn Japanese but since WWII, the region has been all Russian.
Most visitors – and there are many – are here on business, with rigs off Sakhalin’s northern shores pulling millions of dollars of crude oil. Travellers will find getting far very difficult (and costly) – but if they do, there’s great natural beauty (three-quarters of Sakhalin is wild terrain of forests and mountains, islands of seals, bears wandering around 1500m mountain tops, clear rivers to fish, slopes to ski). March to June can be wet and grey, mid-September and October brings on foliage.
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