Surrounded by the Khibiny mountains and with 2km-wide Lake Bolshoy Vudyavr spread at its feet, Kirovsk is almost an attractive town. If you throw back a couple of shots, squint and look in the right direction, you might just believe you’re in a Swiss alpine village. But Kirovsk was founded in 1929 for mining the world’s deposits of apatite, the raw material of phosphate fertilisers, and the lake is fronted by rail tracks and decaying industrial plants. Still, it has the best skiing and snowboarding in northwestern Russia, with a season that can last into June and prices that will make you want to stay all year.
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