Excruciatingly slow or a great social event? Opinions are mixed but taking one of the four weekly Slyudyanka to Port Baikal trains along this scenic, lake-hugging branch line remains a very popular tourist activity. You’ll need to juggle sunglasses, fan and torch as the carriages are unventilated and unlit. The most picturesque sections of the route are the valley, pebble beach and headland at Polovinnaya (around halfway), and the bridge area at km149 where there’s also a small Rerikh museum (one hour from Slyudyanka). Views are best if you can persuade the driver to let you ride on the front of the locomotive – possible on certain tour packages. Note that most trains from Port Baikal travel by night and so are useless for sightseeing.
The old stone tunnels, stolby-cliff cuttings and bridges are an attraction even for nontrain-buffs who might drive alongside sections of the route on winter ice roads from Kultuk. Hiking sections of the peaceful track is also popular. Walking from Port Baikal leads to some pleasant if litter-marred beaches. Or get off an Irkutsk-Slyudyanka elektrichka at Temnaya Pad and hike down the stream valley for about an hour. You should emerge at km149 on the Circumbai- kal track, from where you can continue by train to Port Baikal if you time things well.
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