A stop in Bratsk neatly breaks a Krasnoyarsk to Severobaikalsk trip into two overnight rides, but a day here is plenty. Its raison d’être is a gigantic 1955 dam (GES), which caused the drowning of the original historic town. New Bratsk is a confusing necklace of disconnected concrete ‘subcities’ with a high-rise Tsentralny area that is spirit-crushingly dull. It does, however, have two English-speaking tour agencies: Taiga Tours (413 951; [email protected]; 2nd fl, Hotel Taiga) and Lovely Tour (Lavli Tur; 433 290; [email protected]; ul Sovetskaya 3, Tsentralny; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat). Given two days’ notice, either agency can organise permits and guides to visit the dam’s turbine rooms.
The dam itself is 30km further north in Energetik and the BAM trains go right across it.
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