If you were beginning to develop an aversion to regional centres, you’re in for a pleasant surprise with Dumaguete. It’s a nice place. Seriously. Everyone raves about the Rizal Blvd promenade, and it’s true there’s something genuinely charming about this harbourfront ‘quarter mile’: the faux-antique gas lamps; the grassy median strip. But there are other things to like about Dumaguete: it’s big but it feels small, and it’s less congested, less polluted and – being a university town – far more hip and urbane than your average provincial capital.
That said, there’s not actually a lot to do here and, after a couple meals and a night or two on the town, most travellers will want to move on.
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