Grassy farmland stretches south from Hastings, dotted with the grand homesteads of Victorian pastoralists. It’s an untouristed area, rich in history and deserted beaches. Waipukurau (aka ‘Wai-puk’), the main town, isn’t exactly thrilling but it’s worth calling in to the extremely helpful Central Hawkes Bay i-SITE (06-858 6488; www.centralhawkesbay.co.nz; Railway Esp; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) in the old railway station. They can sort you out with the comprehensive Central Hawkes Bay: Unwind Country brochure and pamphlets outlining heritage trails and DOC reserves and walkways.
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