Ujjain initially seems like an outpost of Indore – a nondescript city where sadhus (spiritual men) squatting on the pavement are occasional flashes of colour. But sit at a chai stand on the ghats at sunset, alongside fellow customers clapping along with the music drifting across the water, and it becomes clear what has drawn the sadhus. An energy undeniably pulses through the temples – perhaps because of their Hindu significance or perhaps because the Tropic of Cancer runs through Ujjain.
The holy city is one of the sites of the Kumbh Mela, during which millions bathe in the Shipra River. It takes place here every 12 years – book now to get a room during the 2016 event.
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