Around 4km above Dharamsala, or 10km via the main road, McLeod Ganj is the headquarters of the Tibetan government in exile and the residence of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama. It’s also the main traveller hangout in Himachal Pradesh, with dozens of budget hotels, trekking companies, net cafés, traveller restaurants, video movie parlours and wall-to-wall shops selling Tibetan souvenirs.
McLeod was established in the mid-1850s as a British garrison and it briefly served as an administration centre for the colonial government until the devastating earthquake of 1905. It remained a backwater until 1960, when the Dalai Lama and his entourage claimed asylum here following the Chinese invasion of Tibet.
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