Assam’s must-do attraction is a rhinoceros-spotting safari in the expansive flat grasslands of Kaziranga National Park (1 Nov-30 Apr, elephant rides 5.30am & 6.30am, jeep access 7.30-10.30am & 2.30-5pm). Kaziranga’s population of around 1800 Indian one-horned rhinos (up from just 200 in 1904) represents over two-thirds of the world’s total. There are several ‘ranges’, but the central and most accessible one generally offers the best viewing chances for rhinos, elephants and swamp deer along with plenty of bird life, including greater adjutant storks (take binoculars). One-hour elephant-back rides are especially satisfying when a ‘team’ of several elephants makes pincer movements, surrounding rhinos without frightening them off.
Elephant rides start from November, but at that time grass is elephant-high so the ride can feel like sailing mysteriously on a green sea. The grass burns off in December or January improving visibility, and by February new sprouts and cooler temperatures tempt more big game to venture into the open. In especially dry years the park opens for jeep safaris from mid-October.
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