South of the two lakes, the state capital lives up to its role in life – shopping complexes and bright lights compete for space in New Market; hotels, museums and restaurants nestle in the Arera and Shamla Hills. On Upper Lake, nicknamed ‘the Bhopal beauty’, the wealthy race around in speedboats or fill the night with ringtones on the Lake Princess cruise boat.
North of the lakes is the old city, where Hamidia Rd is a streak of modernity alongside an area of bazaars and mosques. Bhopal’s population is 40% Muslim – one of India’s highest concentration of Muslims – and the women in black niqabs (veils) are reminders of the female Islamic rulers who built up Bhopal in the 19th century. North of the old city is a reminder of a more recent, more tragic history – the Union Carbide plant, site of the world’s worst industrial disaster.
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