At first glance, Yorkshire’s favourite seaside resort stands up quite well. It has a spectacular setting above two beautiful white-sand bays; it is graced by a host of handsome buildings built at various times during the reigns of Edward, Victoria and the four Georges; and is topped by the romantic hulk of a castle. It sounds inviting, but once you’re on the waterfront the seaside kitsch overwhelms what is left of Scarborough’s more genteel side: neon-lit amusement arcades and casinos draw punters away from the donkey rides and tacky souvenir stands.
The town might have remained forever in medieval obscurity were it not for the announcement in 1620 that the waters were medicinal, making it one of the first places in England to popularise sea bathing. From the mid-18th century it was a successful seaside resort; it is the vestiges of that era that are most interesting about Scarborough today. Its renowned theatre is the base of England’s popular playwright, Alan Ayckbourn, whose plays always premier here.
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