Beneath the watchful gaze of a sturdy Norman castle, Helmsley is a classic North Yorkshire market town, a handsome old place full of old houses, historic coaching inns and – inevitably – a cobbled square where Friday is market day. Nearby are the dreamlike ruins of Rievaulx Abbey and there are a fistful of decent walks in the area. All told, you could do far worse than base yourself here to explore this gorgeous southwest corner of the moors.
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