Like most sub-Saharan nations, Guinea-Bissau is an arbitrary European construct, yet it possesses two qualities that make this small country stand out from its neighbours. First and foremost are the people themselves. You’ll almost never hear the disingenuous ‘bonjour, mon ami’ that signals the beginning of an unwelcome sales pitch. If you’re arriving from, say, Dakar, you’ll be relieved to find helpful gestures are almost always just that – expressions of kindness rather than a means to extract cash. Bissau’s relaxed feel, pastel-coloured buildings and nice cafés are worth a couple days of your time.
The country’s really big draw? The remarkable Arquipélago dos Bijagós. These delta islands are lined with powdery, white-sand beaches, washed by azure waters, and populated by a people whose matriarchal culture, long protected by hidden sandbanks and treacherous tides, is unlike any found in West Africa.
Time GMT/UTC
Population 1.416 million
Borders Guinea (Kandika open); Senegal (Salikénié and Pirada open, São Domingos sometimes closed – check ahead)
Seasons Dry and mild (late November – February), hot and humid (March – May & November), hot and rainy (June – October)
Telephone Country code245; international access code 00
ATMs There are none; come with cash or travellers cheques
Budget From US$30 per day
Capital Bissau
Visa Single entry valid for 45 days costs US$60. Required for all visitors except citizens of Economic Community of West Africa States (Ecowas) nations. Available upon arrival at Bissau airport. Otherwise, arrange before arrival.
Languages Portuguese, Crioulo
Area 36, 120 sq km
Money West African CFA franc; US$1 = CFA498
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