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Like most sub-Saharan nations, Guinea-Bissau is an arbitrary European construct, yet it possesses two qualities that make this small country stand out from its neighbours. First and foremost are the people themselves. You’ll almost never hear the disingenuous ‘bonjour, mon ami’ that signals the beginning of an unwelcome sales pitch. If you’re arriving from, say, Dakar, you’ll be relieved to find helpful gestures are almost always just that – expressions of kindness rather than a means to extract cash. Bissau’s relaxed feel, pastel-coloured buildings and nice cafés are worth a couple days of your time.

The country’s really big draw? The remarkable Arquipélago dos Bijagós. These delta islands are lined with powdery, white-sand beaches, washed by azure waters, and populated by a people whose matriarchal culture, long protected by hidden sandbanks and treacherous tides, is unlike any found in West Africa.

Time GMT/UTC
Population 1.416 million
Borders Guinea (Kandika open); Senegal (Salikénié and Pirada open, São Domingos sometimes closed – check ahead)
Seasons Dry and mild (late November – February), hot and humid (March – May & November), hot and rainy (June – October)
Telephone Country code245; international access code 00
ATMs There are none; come with cash or travellers cheques
Budget From US$30 per day
Capital Bissau
Visa Single entry valid for 45 days costs US$60. Required for all visitors except citizens of Economic Community of West Africa States (Ecowas) nations. Available upon arrival at Bissau airport. Otherwise, arrange before arrival.
Languages Portuguese, Crioulo
Area 36, 120 sq km
Money West African CFA franc; US$1 = CFA498

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Río Grande has always had a prominent role in Fuegian history. In 1886 the villainous gold seeker Julius Popper stumbled across the mouth of the Río Grande, home to Selk’nam (or Ona) people. As wool baron José Menéndez’ sheep stations developed, it became a growing makeshift service town. In 1893 the Salesian order, under the guidance of Monseñor Fagnano, set up a mission in an unsuccessful attempt to shelter the Selk’nam from the growing infringement.

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Bathurst Island lies 80 kilometres to the north of Darwin in the Arafura Sea and has been the home of the Tiwi Islanders for thousands of years. Nguiu is the largest of several Aboriginal communities operating on the island. All visitors must have a permit from the Tiwi Land Council. Bathurst Island was first sighted by Europeans in 1644, when Abel Tasman passed on his way from Batavia. In 1910 a church minister persuaded the South Australian government to give him 10,000 acres of land on Bathurst Island to build a mission for the Tiwi Islanders. The mission achieved the dubious distinction of being the first place in Australia to experience foreign invasion when, on 19 February 1942, Japanese bombers, on their way to Darwin, bombed Nguiu. In 1978 the ownership of Bathurst Island was formally handed back to the Tiwi people and today the island is run by the Tiwi Land Council. It is said that the word ‘Tiwi’ means ‘people, the people or, perhaps, the chosen people. No visit to Bathurst Island would be complete without a tour of its art and craft galleries. The Tiwi people’s distinctive style is popular with collectors, who snap up bark paintings, textiles, pottery and wood carvings. The exciting annual footy grand final day (which is accompanied by an art sale) in Nguiu is an event not to be missed.

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Mount Perry is a small township founded on mining and the timber industry. Dominated by the peak of Mount Perry rising 750 metres above the township, historic buildings and remnants of the town copper mining past can still be seen today. This scenic area is home to one of regional Queensland’s largest gold mine at Mount Rawdon with attractions including an Historical Museum and Arts Centre, Schuhs lookout offering a panoramic view over the valley, the Boolboonda Tunnel, the southern hemisphere’s longest hand cut unsupported tunnel, a remnant from copper mining days and local arts and crafts. Some major sporting events are the twice yearly Mount Perry Races, the annual Mount Perry Mountain Bike Cup and Mount Perry Woodchop, all drawing large crowds. Markets are held nearby at Gaeta several times a year. Mount Perry is becoming known for it’s vineyards and olive groves, with the Wonbah Winery offering tastings and cellar door sales. Scenic hikes take keen bushwalkers to the summit of Mount Perry and nearby Goodnight Scrub National Park offer scenic vistas and wilderness camping via unsealed, untarred roads.

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Craggy blue mountain ranges are a backdrop for Biggenden, known as ‘the Rose of the Burnett’. Along with agricultural pursuits – beef, grain crops, dairying, piggeries, peanuts, citrus and timber – the area is rich in minerals. Located 100 kilometres inland, Biggenden offers a true country feeling just an hour’s drive from the coast. The small township is surrounded by open pastures offering the view of wide, open panoramas of the surrounding ranges. Cattle sales are held every second Monday which are a great attraction for visitors. This district also contains two of Queensland’s relatively undeveloped National Parks – Mount Walsh and Coalstoun Lakes National Parks – and large tracks of forest at Mount Woowoonga. Mount Walsh National Park offers short walks to the peaks base, with more strenuous walks to the bare granite summit for experienced bushwalkers. Multi day hikes over rugged terrain offer a true wilderness experience. Coongara Rock also provides excellent mountaineering and views, best accessed via a Four Wheel Drive vehicle. Often dry, the mountain comes to life after local rains, with waterfalls and rockpools a feature. Chowey Bridge nearby is an interesting historical feature, being only one for three concrete span bridges of its type. The township features a pub hotel and caravan park, with host farm, bed and breakfast and National Park camping available nearby. Coalstoun Lakes is an even smaller township and features twin volcanic cinder cone craters lined with dense vine forest. The lakes are usually dry and only appear after a very wet summer season. This National Park, Queensland’s smallest, is best enjoyed by birdwatchers.

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Monto lies at the northwest gateway to the Bundaberg Region on the Burnett Highway 17. An agricultural and mining centre, Monto offers the traveller a friendly and scenic rest stop with motel/hotel and caravan park accommodation. Situated on a plateau of gentle hills and wide panoramas, restored buildings from the 1930’s and 50’s give the town a charming rural feel. The town has a historical museum highlighting the mining, dairy and timber industry of the area. Nearby highlights include Cania Gorge National Park, Lake Cania and the Kalpowar State Forest. Nearby Mungungo features a winery offering cellar door sales and ancient fossilised coral reefs now appear as a low series of rolling hills east of Monto. Located on an elevated plateau, Monto often receives some if the coldest overnight temperatures in Queensland.

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The copper mines of Cloncurry quickly made this town one of the most prosperous in the Outback. Down through the years since the copper lode was discovered in 1867, Cloncurry has hosted a plethora of other historic occasions. It was here where the idea for Qantas was first mooted. ‘Conceived in Cloncurry, born in Winton and grew up in Longreach’ goes a local saying. The original hangar still stands at the local aerodrome. The Royal Flying Doctor Service was also launched in Cloncurry. Visit John Flynn Place to get an insight into the story of this iconic outback service. Known as the ‘Friendly Heart of the Great North West’, the town now services the sheep and cattle properties in the surrounding district and is an important sales centre for sheep, cattle and horses.

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Julia Creek is located on the Overlander’s Way, the main route from Townsville that runs west to Mount Isa and on to Tennant Creek in the Northern Territory. Julia Creek started to grow when the railway line was extended in February 1908. The town was named after the niece of Donald McIntyre, the first European settler in the area. An interesting collection of memorabilia can be found at the Donald McIntyre Museum in Burke Street. The district’s main industries are cattle, sheep, and mining at BHP Cannington. Julia Creek is a major stock trucking and cattle sales centre. Its impressive saleyards are fitted with lighting for night loading and unloading. The area is home to a rare and endangered marsupial, the Julia Creek Dunnart. Because of their nocturnal habits and timid natures, glimpses of the dunnart are rare. Julia Creek has many sporting and social events on its calendar that are a major feature of the town’s lifestyle. While in the area, take the time to visit Punchbowl Waterhole and Sedan Dip. On the Flinders River approximately 45 kilometres north-east of Julia Creek, the Punchbowl is an excellent spot for swimming, fishing and picnicking. Sedan Dip is on the Cloncurry River, on the Beef Road to Normanton, 100 kilometres north of Julia Creek.

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