Côte d’Ivoire was once the economic miracle of Africa and a role model for stability on the continent. Never completely breaking from their colonial masters, the post-independence leaders wooed French capital to build a modern infrastructure and considerable prosperity. The long-serving and charismatic first president, Houphouët-Boigny, promoted the notion of a happy amalgam of pragmatic Western capitalism with benign African values. The society he presided over, however, was far from liberal and the dream ended with his death. A consequent string of coups and popular insurgencies shook the country, and northern-led rebellion in 2002 violently split it in half. Most of the huge French-expat community jumped ship, and the economy has since crumbled. However, the country abounds in some of the best natural attractions in West Africa, such as Parc National de Taï’s vast patch of rainforest and the string of beaches along the Atlantic coast. It’s also a land rich in tradition due to a diverse tribal mix that includes Dan, Lobi, Baoulé and Senoufo peoples.

But it’s really the modernity that sets Côte d’Ivoire apart from other West African nations. Abidjan is decidedly dog-eared these days, but its shimmering skyscrapers will still astound. Yamoussoukro in the Centre is famous for its basilica, an astonishing replica of Rome’s St Peter’s, which epitomises the Houphouët-Boigny era and, in a way, Africa’s current place in today’s world, since the Big Man philosophy shows few signs of fading.

Time GMT/UTC
Population 17.3 million
Borders All borders open, but only Ghana safe
Seasons Wet seasons: south (May to July and October to November), north (June to October)
Telephone Country code 225; international access code 00
ATMs Found throughout the government-controlled south
Budget US$40 minimum daily in Abidjan, US$15 to US$20 elsewhere
Visas Required by all except citizens of the US and most West African countries; get one before you arrive
Capital Yamoussoukro
Languages French, Mande, Malinké, Dan, Senoufo, Baoulé, Agni, Dioula
Area 322, 465 sq km
Money West African CFA franc; US$1 = CFA498

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Flick through the glossy tourist brochures and the clichés come thick and fast. Malawi is ‘the warm heart of Africa’, or ‘Africa for beginners’; and its lake ‘the lake of stars’. It all seems too good to be true, but, with stunning and varied scenery and supremely friendly locals, along with the relative ease of travel here, Malawi really does live up to the hype.

Malawi’s big draw is the lake: a magnificent shard of crystal water stretching some 500km along Malawi’s eastern border, separating it from the wild and mountainous coast of Mozambique and Tanzania. Isolated villages pepper the northern lakeshore and the beautiful Liwonde National Park rests at its southern tip. Around 500 species of fish inhabit the lake and the freshwater diving and snorkelling here are excellent. Malawi’s not just for water babies and sun worshippers though; there’s plenty here to keep you active and Malawi’s landscape is surprisingly diverse. Head for the misty heights of Mount Mulanje or to the Nyika National Park, where you’ll find sheer escarpments, dramatic peaks, endless rolling grassland and some of the most enjoyable hiking routes in the whole of Africa.

Time GMT/UTC + 2
Population 12 million
Borders Tanzania, Mozambique, Zambia; all main border crossings are open from 6am to 6pm
Seasons Cool and dry (May-Aug), hot and dry (September to mid-November), hot and wet (mid-November to April)
Language(s) English, Chichewa
Telephone Country code 265; international access code 101
ATMs In major cities
Budget US$15 to US$25 per day
Capital Lilongwe
Visa Free (for most nationalities) for 30 days; issued at point of entry
Area 118, 484 sq km
Money Malawi Kwacha; US$1 = MK140

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It’s no wonder that South Africa draws more visitors than anywhere else in sub-Saharan Africa. World-class wildlife-watching, cosmopolitan cities like the great big beating heart of Johannesburg, stunning natural panoramas from Table Mountain National Park and vibrant cultures make the country appealing to almost every taste and budget. Geographically, its extremes include the arid semidesert of the Karoo, the snowcapped peaks of the Drakensberg Range, the lush subtropical coast of KwaZulu-Natal and the fertile temperate valleys of Western Cape. Within the space of a day, you can journey from vineyard-clad hillsides in the Western Cape to the vast open spaces of the Kalahari; from waterfront chic in Cape Town to isolated Zulu villages; from elephant-spotting in Kruger National Park to the sublime seascapes of the coast.

While it’s easy to focus on the glitz and developed infrastructure, you’ll only get below the surface by seeking out the country’s other face – most visible in the sprawling townships where far too many people live stalked by the shadows of hunger, poverty and one of the highest HIV/AIDS infection rates in the world. Behind its incredible natural beauty, South Africa is the stage for the daily drama of one of the world’s greatest experiments in racial harmony. The intensity of this drama surrounds you wherever you go, and is likely to be one of the most fascinating and challenging aspects of your travels.

Borders Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Swaziland, Lesotho
Visa Free, 90-day entry permits issued on arrival to citizens of most Commonwealth countries (including Australia and the UK), most Western European countries, Japan and the USA
Time GMT/UTC + 2
Telephone Country code 27; international access 09
Money Rand; US$1 = R7.4
Seasons Cape Town: cold & wet (May to August); sunny & warm (September to May); Durban & Johannesburg: dry (May to September); wet (October to April)
Population 46.9 million
ATMs Found in most cities and large towns
Capital Pretoria (administrative), Bloemfontein (judicial) and Cape Town (legislative)
Budget US$25 to US$50 a day
Languages 11 (English, Afrikaans, Ndebele, Sepedi, Setswana, Sotho, Swati, Tshivenda, Xhosa, Xitsonga, and Zulu)

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Mali is the jewel in West Africa’s crown, a destination that has all the right ingredients. The country occupies the heart of a territory that once supported Africa’s greatest empires and is rich with historical resonance. This history bequeathed to Mali some of its most dramatic attractions – the legendary city of Timbuktu (Tombouctou), whose name has never lost its allure for travellers, the gloriously improbable mosque at Djenné and the bustling river port of Mopti are simply three among many.

Mali’s history has always been a story of its deserts and rivers. The lucrative trade routes of the Sahara once made the region among the world’s richest, and the Niger, one of the grand old rivers of Africa, is still the lifeblood of the country; to journey along the Niger River route (preferably on a slow boat to Timbuktu) is one of the continent’s great adventures. Not far from the riverbank, the extraordinary Falaise de Bandiagara rises up from the plains, and shelters one of West Africa’s most intriguing peoples – the Dogon, whose villages and complex cultural rituals still cling to the edge of rocky cliffs. If you can visit one place in Mali, go to the Dogon Country: it’s utterly unforgettable.

Time GMT/UTC
Population 10.6 million
Borders Algeria, Burkina Faso, Côte d’Ivoire, Guinea, Mauritania, Niger, Senegal
Seasons Hot (October to February), very hot (April to June), wet (July to August)
Telephone Country code 223; international access code 00
ATMs None that work
Budget US$25 per day
Capital Bamako
Visa Renewable five-day visa available at border for CFA15, 000 or one-month visas at any Malian embassy.
Languages French, Bambara
Area 1, 240, 140 sq km
Money West African CFA franc; US$1 = CFA498

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Sudan is the largest, yet one of the least visited, countries in Africa. Although various ongoing conflicts mean much of this vast nation remains off limits, the northeast is one of the safest places in the world, and the easing of travel restrictions is opening up new swathes of territory to explore in the lovely south, where Africa transitions into the tropics. The pyramids and other ancient sites littering the northern deserts may pale compared to the best Egypt has on offer, but you can usually experience these without another person in sight – and this sense of discovery often repeats itself in the towns, too, since Sudan’s tourist trail is still no more than a trickle. And while the solitude is a top draw, visitors invariably agree that the Sudanese are among the friendliest and most hospitable people on earth, with a natural generosity that belies their poverty, and this alone makes any trip worthwhile. Whether you rush through on a Cairo to Cape Town trip, or spend a slow month soaking up the history and hospitality, visiting Sudan is an eye-opening and rewarding experience.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009

Borders Egypt and Ethiopia open; crossing to Central African Republic (CAR), Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), Kenya, Libya and Uganda not recommended; Eritrea closed but likely to reopen; Chad closed
Time GMT/UTC +3
Telephone Country code 249, international access code 00
Money Sudanese dinar; US$1 = SDD200
Visas Best bought in Cairo (Egypt), or with the help of a Khartoum travel agent
Seasons Rainy season in north (July to September), Red Sea coast (October to December) and south (April to November)
Area 2.5 million sq km
Population 41 million
ATMs Only work with local accounts
Capital Khartoum
Budget US$20 to US$30 a day
Languages Arabic, English, over 100 regional languages

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Small in size, big in ambitions. Djibouti may be one of the tiniest, youngest and least-known nations in Africa, but it could also well be the most talented or, depending on your perspective, the most opportunistic. While its larger, more powerful neighbours are embroiled in a never-ending border dispute, Djibouti stands out as a haven of stability and neutrality.

Sadly, for the few travellers who venture here (except, maybe, for the French, who colonised the country and are more acquainted with its assets), Djibouti is usually nothing more than a transit point on the road to Eritrea or Ethiopia. But, you would miss out if you limited your experience of the country is waiting around in Djibouti City for a connecting plane, train or bus. Why not settle in for a while and enjoy its dishevelled nightlife, luscious cuisine and well-organised infrastructure? Better still get out of town and immerse yourself in eerie lunar landscapes, such as the other-worldly Lac Abbé or the vast salt lake, Lac Assal. Or visit the verdant slopes of the Goda Mountains, which rise like a green surprise in the northwest of this otherwise sun-bleached land. Djibouti is also a great place for a few days’ strenuous activity, with hiking, diving, snorkelling with whale sharks (whisper it softly) and even windsurfing on wheels (yes!) readily available. For such a tiny speck of land, there’s a startling variety of adventure options. But if you need to recharge the batteries, you could simply laze on a pale-sand beach in the Gulf of Tadjoura. True, Djibouti will put a dent in your wallet, but if you have a penchant for bizarre or secretive places, be sure to squeeze it into your African odyssey. It could hold you captive longer than expected.

Time GMT/UTC +3
Population Approximately 704, 000
Borders Eritrea, Ethiopia and Somaliland open
Seasons Hot (May-September), cool (mid-October to mid-April), wet (October–April)
Telephone Country code 253; international access code 00
ATMs Two in Djibouti City (but they were not functioning at the time of research)
Budget US$50 to US$100 a day
Capital Djibouti City
Visa US$35 to US$60 for 30 days; obtainable at the airport for most Western nationals
Languages Arabic, French, Afar, Somali
Area 23, 000 sq km
Money Djibouti Franc (DFr); US$1 = DFr176
Capital Djibouti City

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Wild coast meets Saharan dunes. This should be enough to lure you to Mauritania. If you’re still diffident, a limited amount of hyperbole may strike a chord: think grandiose dune fields, ancient cities scoured by sandy winds, giddily deep canyons, eye-popping plateaus, sand seas larger than many a small European country and a phalanx of enchanting oases.

Sure, you may find similar landscapes in other parts of West Africa, but few are on the same scale as those in Mauritania. And few are as varied. Where else could you find such a startling interplay of dunes and ocean? If it’s tranquillity you’re after, fear not: unlike Senegal, the Mauritanian coastline is completely virginal – expect kilometres of sandy beaches without a resort in sight. And it will remain forever: an immense stretch of seashore is protected, with Parc National du Banc d’Arguin ranking as one of the best bird-watching spots in the world – Nouâdhibou, a fishing port on the Atlantic Coast, is a good gateway to this region. Nouakchott will lure you after a spell in the desert with its bountiful fresh seafood. For outdoor-adventure types, Mauritania offers the full slate of trekking options as well as exhilarating camel trips amid surreal landscapes, not to mention hot-air ballooning in the The Adrar.

Time GMT/UTC
Population 3 million
Borders Morocco, Mali, Senegal open; Algeria unadvisable
Seasons Very hot (April to October), hot (November to March)
Telephone Country code 222; international access code 00
ATMs None
Budget US$25 per day
Capital Nouakchott
Visa In advance US$30, at Moroccan border US$25
Languages Arabic (Hassaniya), French, Fula, Soninké and Wolof
Area 1, 030, 700 sq km
Money Ouguiya (UM); US$1 = UM266

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Swaziland might be among the smallest countries on the continent and one of Africa’s remaining monarchies, but there’s more than novelty value on offer here. You can almost feel South Africa’s undercurrents of tension fade away when you cross the border into friendly, easy-going ittle Swaziland, making it a relaxing stopover on the trip between Mozambique and South Africa. And it’s surprising how much there is to do here – the royal ceremonies, excellent wildlife reserves and superb scenery should be more than enough reason to come.

Try Hlane Royal National Park for an eyeful of white rhinos, lions and antelopes – camping options are available for overnight stays. You may not want to stay overnight in the somewhat dull Mbanane, but you may well pass through on your way to the Ezulwini & Malkerns Valleys, the former renown for its picturesque scenery and the latter for its handicrafts.

Borders South Africa, Mozambique
Visa Not required for most nationalities
Time GMT/UTC + 2
Telephone Country code 268; international code 00
Money Lilangeni (E); US$1 = E7.4
Seasons Rainy (December to April), winter (May to August), drier and cool (September to November)
Area 17,365 sq km
Population 1.1 million
ATMs Only in Mbabane
Capital Mbabane
Budget US$25 to US$55 a day
Languages English, Swati

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Once a popular holiday destination on a par with neighbouring Morocco, Algeria’s tourist industry all but disappeared when bitter civil war broke out in 1992. After a decade of conflict the situation improved slightly, and some access to the southern Sahara region has been possible in the last couple of years. However, independent travel without a vehicle is almost nonexistent, and after the tourist abductions of 2003 self-drive travellers need to be very aware of the risks involved.

This dearth of visitors is a great shame, as Algeria is one of the most fascinating countries in North Africa. In the dramatic Unesco-listed Tassili N’Ajjer and Hoggar regions, near the town of Tamanrasset, tribal culture is very much alive, and the day-to-day hassle common to many Arab countries is conspicuously absent. Algiers contains a livid mix of tradition and modernism, its colonial past maintaining a presence. Timimoun embodies the storybook oasis town of the Sahara, and the welcoming town of In Salah is split in two by a creeping sand dune.

Borders Niger and Tunisia open; Morocco closed; Mali, Mauritania and Libya crossings not advised
Visa US$40 to US$50 for one month
Time GMT/UTC +1
Telephone Country code 213; international access code 00
Money Algerian dinar (DA); US$1 = DA71
Seasons In the north: wet (October to March), dry (June to September); in the south: hot (March to October), cool (November to February)
Area 2.3 million sq km
Population 32.9 million
ATMs None
Capital Algiers
Budget US$35 to US$40 per day
Languages Arabic, Berber, French

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